Mention high-end Seiko, and relative newcomers to Seiko will assert Grand Seiko as the be-all end-all, but experienced Seiko hands will always mention King Seiko - like the full serviced Chronometer-rated 1969 King Seiko 4502-8010 mechanical dress watch here - in the same breath.
In 1959, Seiko split up their Suwa subsidiary into two separate entities—Suwa Seikosha and Daini Seikosha—to promote competition and product development within the company, with both operating separately under the idea this would incite competition and each would try to one-up each other and produce better products.
Well…it worked.
In 1959, Daini Seikosha hired a young designer by the name of Taro Tanaka, the man who would in 1962 create a set of design principles that he called “The Grammar of Design.” His rules would go on to fundamentally change Seiko’s design language. All surfaces and angles of the case, dial, indices and hands had to be flat and geometrically perfect to best reflect light. Following this, the bezels were to be simple, two-dimensional faceted curves. And third, no visual distortion from any angle was allowed, and all cases and dials had to be mirror-finished.
For a brief period in the late 1960’s and early 1970’s, some Seiko’s were certified chronometers by Bureaux officiels de contrôle de la marche des montres (precursor to COSC). Seiko's history with the Swiss official chronometer rating is an interesting one, from Seiko's first participation in 1963 to its entry of the 45 calibre here in 1968.
Seiko nearly always placed rather well vis-a-vis its Swiss competition - almost certainly to the embarassment of the Swiss. When the successor to the chronometer contest was established, the COSC standard, the Swiss made the odd decision that "all parts used to build the movement must be made within Europe”...jealous much?
Seiko would eventually eschew the Swiss-based chronometer certification in favor of their own, more stringent, standard, thusly beating the Swiss at their own game. And Seiko would go on to be the first to invent the automatic movement...but thats another story. King Seiko production lasted loosely from 1968-1974, with the Seiko introduction of its Astron, the first quartz watch, in 1969 ultimately spelling the death kneel of the KS high frequency movement.
This King Seiko comes on a suede leather strap, and with nylon strap, rugged travel case, and springbar tool.
1969 King Seiko 4502-8010 Chronometer-Rated Dress Watch
DIAL: King Seiko-signed dial, with hour, minute, and second hands. Of note, dial is "Superior Chronometer Officially Certified"-signed.
CASE: Stainless-steel case measures 38mm (w/o crown, 39mm with) x 41.5mm. Matching caseback, with intact gold Seiko chronometer medallion - these KS medallions are frequently degraded to the point of non-existence over the decades by sweat.
CRYSTAL: Slightly-domed crystal, no cracks.
BAND: This 4502-8010 comes on light brown Strap Geeks suede leather strap; it also comes with a dark blue, white, and green nylon strap.
MOVEMENT: 4500A Seiko 25-jewel hacking manual-wind mechanical chronometer-rated movement, manufactured in November 1969, which beats at 36,000 beats per hour. Chronometer serial number is inscribed on movement. We have performed a full service on this King Seiko.
CROWN: Correct KS-signed stainless-steel crown.