During the era of the ever-present smart phone, there exists a certain atypical charisma to the GMT/Navigator watch – like the increasingly rare serviced 1968 Seiko 6117-8000 Navigator Timer GMT automatic here, on its likewise rare original Seiko stainless-steel "ladder" bracelet – that appeals to vintage watch aficionados.
For the air traveler, international corporate executive, news, finance, or communications personnel of the 1960’s when Seiko debuted the watch here – the Japanese company’s first iteration of a GMT pilot’s watch – the 24-hour function must have carried a certain useful appeal, even indispensable. After all – no smart phones!
Following Seiko's introduction of the World Timer during the 1964 Tokyo Olympics (the Seiko 6217 GMT), the 6117-8000 emerged as its second GMT timepiece (and, as noted, its first GMT pilots watch). The Navigator Timer variant possesses a more streamlined design compared to the standard GMT layout and operates using the 6117 movement.
A decidedly less busy design when compared to the Tokyo Olympic GMT, the 6117 instead ops for a standard GMT layout built around the same 6117 movement. The clean design is well-executed, and features everything that makes Seiko so damn desirable for watches of the era – a gunmetal grey dial (there’s also a rarer silver sunburst variant), a bright-red GMT hand, lumed hour and minute hands, and a lightly lumed chapter ring that makes for a highly functional GMT watch that was allegedly a favorite of Viet Nam War pilots.
Per Fratello’s vintage Seiko guru Mike Stockton, “When most of us think of a GMT, we immediately recall the Rolex GMT that was developed with and for Pan-Am pilots in the 1950’s. It became the first watch to display a central second time zone via a 4th hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel. While that model has changed to some degree over time, it still looks somewhat the same. The vintage GMTs are favorites of mine but because they are Rolexes, they are also extremely expensive.”
“The Seiko Navigator Timer is one of those watches that belong in any vintage Seiko collector’s suite. It’s an absolute classic as far as design with some great colors, presence and functionality.”
The 6117 is of a similar movement pedigree to the famous Seiko 6105 diver, with the rather notable exception that the 6117 possess a date register and a third 24-hour GMT hand calibrated to the main hour hand, and an inner bezel. And we can't fail to mention – again – that the 6117 Navigator Timer was Seiko’s second GMT watch after their World Timer.
It’s important to note the red GMT - GMT being four hours ahead of the U.S.’s EDT/EST - hand only makes a complete circle of the dial every 24 hours (the hour, minute, and separate time zone red hand all align at the 12 o’clock position when this occurs), so it moves more slowly than the hour hand.
This Seiko 6117 comes on its original Seiko stainless-steel bracelet, and with a nylon strap, rugged travel case, and springbar tool.
1969 Seiko 6117-8000 Navigator Timer GMT Automatic
DIAL: Spectacular steel grey Seiko Navigator Timer-signed dial with zero blemishes and correct hour, minute, seconds, and red GMT hands. All hand lume (hour, minute, and GMT), along with dial hour indices shine following exposure to strong light. GMT and date at 3 o’clock position works as designed.
CASE: Stainless-steel tonneau case measures 38.5mm x 45mm, with matching caseback. Bezel insert evinces nearly zero wear and retains its 24-hour indices and rotates bi-directionally without rachet, as designed. No evidence of machine polish, and case lines are sharp. Case retains original brushed finish on top.
CRYSTAL: Correct domed crystal, no cracks or deep scratches.
BAND: This Seiko 6117-8000 comes on its rare original Seiko-signed stainless-steel "ladder" bracelet, which will fit up to an approx. 7.50 inch wrist; this GMT also comes with a black nylon strap.
MOVEMENT: Seiko 17-jewel 6117A automatic movement, which beats at 21,600 bph, was manufactured in March 1969. Although we didn't perform it ourselves, this watch performs as if it has been serviced in the last several years.
CROWN: Recessed unsigned stainless-steel crown.