There exist numerous legendary vintage Seiko divers, but few more so than the venerable Seiko 6309 series - like the 1984 Seiko 6309-7049 automatic dive watch here - with its long and well-documented history of use in Cold War-era military operations (and beyond).
The 6309 was popular with the U.S. military (and militaries further afield from the America, as well), akin to the Seiko model it replaced, the 6105 - its (much more expensive) forefather - and it quickly became the staple of the USMIL (both regular forces and Special Forces) and commercial divers everywhere. U.S. Navy Naval Special Warfare units favored Seiko divers (in particular the 6309) -
Per Watches of Espionage (WoE), "Backed by impressive military history, a utilitarian design format, widespread adoption in our community, and a more attainable price point compared to other icons in the world of undersea timekeeping, the 6309 is among the most important diving and military watches of all time, full stop. I would even go as far as to say it is the most iconic Watches of Espionage watch of the last five decades, issued to and worn by SEALs, Pararescuemen, Special Forces, and others."
"Not limited to official issue, the 6309 was also commonly purchased by military members at the local PX or Navy Exchange. In past profiles of special operators, which are extensive at this point, the 6309 is easily the most commonly encountered mechanical dive watch in the late 70s and 80s. When US Navy SEAL Dave Hall shook hands with Scout Sniper legend Gunny Carlos Hathcock after completing sniper school, a Seiko Turtle was on his wrist. When Jose Gordon was a young Army Ranger assisting the Contras in their fight against communism in Nicaragua in the 1980s, he wore a Seiko 6309."
For an example of U.S. Navy SEAL Team Six forces being issued a Seiko 6309, WoE related the story behind legendary Navy SEAL Rudy Boesch and his Seiko 6309 diver in "SEAL Team Six and A U.S. Navy-Issued Seiko Turtle."
Again, per WoE, “Originally the Seiko was issued to revered SEAL Rudy Boesch in the late 1970s, and SEAL sniper Kyle Defoor acquired it in 1996 when his father purchased the watch at an auction supporting the UDT-SEAL Association and gave it to him. Defoor wore the watch in training and operational deployments, including the early years of the war in Afghanistan."
"Boesch enlisted in the Navy at 17 years old and had a 45-year career in Naval Special Warfare, making him the longest serving SEAL at the time...Boesch earned a Bronze Star for his actions during two combat deployments in Vietnam with SEAL Team 2. After Vietnam, Boesch returned to Little Creek, VA with SEAL Team 2 and it was there that he was issued this Seiko in 1979…Boesch [remains] a legendary figure in the Naval Special Warfare community, and years later became well-known to the general public due to his participation in the reality show “Survivor.”
Upon his retirement from the Navy on August 1, 1990, as a Command Master Chief Petty Officer, he was awarded the Defense Superior Service Medial. Per former SEAL T.L. Bosiljevac, in his history of SEAL operations in Vietnam, Boesch symbolized much of what the SEAL teams represent, "There are a lot of colorful personalities among the teams, but even considering the best of those, Rudy Boesch is a legend. Everybody knows Rudy, and you can bet that Rudy knows everyone in return ... [including] some of the Navy's top brass."
The 6309 series of diving watches was the third generation of Seiko’s recreational and professional divers. The 6309 line replaced the 6105 in 1976 and was produced until 1988, when Seiko replaced it with the 7002 diver. 6309’s - like this one here - were a successful effort by Seiko to improve the 6105 movement, which allowed for greater lifespan, robustness, and ease of maintenance.
The 6309 line was produced in two separate case variations: an earlier cushion case, popularly known as the “turtle” for the appearance of its cushion case, which was produced between 1976-88, and a slimmer case version from 1982-88 (the 6309-729A). The former featured so-called "Suwa" dials (for the Japan-based Suwa factory mark between the had post and the six o'clock position) from 1976 through at least 1981; following this, the Suwa symbol was removed from the dial - the "non-Suwa dial" - until Seiko ceased production in 1988.
Oh - and did we mention both Rolling Stones legendary frontman Mic Jagger and actor Ed Harris (who also wore a Seiko 6139 "Cevert" in the "Apollo 13" film, but that's another story) personally own one? Harris has worn his in multiple films throughout the last three decades.
Moves like Jagger, indeed...
This Seiko 6309 diver comes on a rubber GL931 dive strap, and with nylon strap, rugged travel case, and springbar tool.
1979 Seiko 6309-7049 Automatic Diver
DIAL: Unmarred black Suwa-signed Seiko dial, with little fading of the vibrant "water resist" dial lettering, which retains its reddish-yellow hue. Date and day functions - with Spanish/English day variants - at the 3 o'clock position functions as designed, with a deep bevel on the day/date window (a correct indicator of an earlier model 6309). Lume has developed a very slight uniform UV patina throughout dial hour indices and handset, and continues to shine.
BEZEL: Bi-directional and ratchets with click. Bezel insert has limited wear, impressive given the age of the watch - inserts are normally the first part on these 6309s to be heavily damaged when these diver's were used as designed, ie: hard.
CASE: Hefty 44mm (w/o crown, 44.5mm with) x 45mm stainless steel cushion case, with sharp case lines. Matching caseback - Seiko wave emblem is crisp and defined.
CRYSTAL: Hardlex crystal, no scratches, blemishes, or imperfections.
BAND: This Seiko 6309 comes on a high-quality rubber Uncle Straps GL831 dive strap - an impressive homage the to the original rubber dive strap this 6309 came on; it also comes with a camo nylon strap.
MOVEMENT: 6300-series Seiko automatic movement, 17 jewels and manufactured in January 1984.
CROWN: Screw-down unsigned stainless-steel crown performs as designed.