Heuer has now become a household name - albeit under different ownership than founded it, namely TAG Heuer, which took over in the mid-1980s. But the watch here - a gold-cased Heuer Ref. 980.017N with its original Heuer-signed gold bracelet - is no ordinary TAG, which in the years since the mid-1980s has had some...questionable design choices.
The gold diver for sale here represents old-school Heuer design, even if it comes in a smaller package, represent a bygone era for Heuer. Heuer managed to scale down all the elements of its highly popular 980 dive watch series - produced beginning in 1979 through 1982 - to make a stunning dive watch, never an easy feat.
The attention to detail and quality is remarkable, and seems more of an achievement with these smaller Heuer cases. Heuer built these divers to high standards, and rendered these waterproof to 200m – just like their bigger brothers.
Despite being officially labeled as a 28mm diver, this - like all Heuer divers – didn’t include crown guards and crown, which make it around 32mm. With 14mm lugs, make no mistake, it’s a small watch - but perfect for an active woman.
This Heuer comes on its original signed gold bracelet, and with a leather strap, spring bar tool, and rugged travel case.
Gold 1982 TAG Heuer Ref. 980.017N Women’s Diver, w/Original Bracelet
DIAL: Black signed dial, with "Mercedes" hands; date at 3 o’clock position functions as designed. Dial and hand lume - not including bezel pip - glows strongly.
BEZEL: Unidirectional gold bezel, with bezel insert in excellent condition, and ratchets w/a satisfying click. Inlaid “pip” remains.
CASE: Gold case measures 28mm (w/o crown, 32mm with) x 35mm; matching signed caseback.
CRYSTAL: Sapphire crystal, no deep scratches.
BAND: Gold-plated stainless-steel Heuer-signed bracelet with wear, which will fit up to an approx. seven-inch wrist, or up to nearly eight inches if wetsuit extension is utilized; links remain tight. This gold Heuer also comes with a brown leather strap.
MOVEMENT: Heuer-signed Swiss ESA quartz movement.
CROWN: Gold Heuer-signed screw-down locking crown.